Craftsmanship in Ubrique — How leather bags are made in Spain
In the south of Spain, in the Sierra de Cádiz, lies Ubrique — one of the world’s most important centres for leather craftsmanship.
This is where Mauska bags are made.
Ubrique, in the Sierra de Cádiz, is one of the world’s most recognised centres for leather craftsmanship and the artisanal production of bags.
One of the workshops we collaborate with is that of Rufi Montero, with whom we have worked since the early days of the brand. His knowledge of the craft is an essential part of the process behind Mauska handbags.
Rufi working in his workshop in Ubrique, where some of the Mauska bags are made.
To better understand how a handmade bag is made in Ubrique, we spoke with him in his workshop.
Rufi, how many years have you been working in leather goods, and how did you get started in this trade?
Hi, I’ve been working in leather goods for 10 years.
I got into it by chance. I was taught by Antonio Pérez, a craftsman of a kind you don’t see in Ubrique anymore. I gave it a try, I liked it, I had a natural feel for it, and today I’m passionate about my work.
Ubrique is known worldwide for its leather goods. What makes this place so special for crafting luxury handbags?
Ubrique has it all: experience, quality, dedication, and discretion.
Ultimately, it’s the art of transforming a piece of leather into a luxury item.
In Ubrique, we have everything we need to craft luxury goods without ever having to leave our town.
When making a handmade bag, how many people are typically involved in the process?
Usually, there are many people involved—at least 5 or 6—since the process has become industrialized and is now produced on an assembly line.
In our workshop, we work by hand, as we know all the processes involved in making a bag from scratch. For this reason, our items are handled by no more than 2 or 3 people.
How long does it usually take to make a bag like the Pereira or the Rosario, from the first cut of the leather to the finished piece?
It comes down to the same point as before. The process we follow is entirely handmade, so the time required varies greatly.If we were talking about assembly-line production, it could be finished in a day. In our case, working by hand and allowing for drying times, a bag like the Pereira or the Rosario takes us a minimum of 3 or 4 days for a single unit.
When it comes to production, the timelines are agreed upon with the brands under contract.
Which part of the process requires the most experience or skill on the part of the artisan?
All processes require knowledge, but there are 3 or 4 key parts:
Choosing the right leather for the design. Not all leathers are suitable for everything.
A correct pattern that fits perfectly when assembling the bag.
Assembling the bag, which requires experience to ensure everything fits together properly. Without this, the previous steps are useless.
Good stitching, which is essential for the final result.
From your perspective, what sets a handmade bag from Ubrique apart from one produced industrially?
There’s no comparison when it comes to low-quality bags produced outside the European Union.
They are mass-produced, lower-quality bags made outside the European Union. At first glance, they may seem fine, but when you hold them in your hand, you notice the differences: poor stitching, shoddy finishes, imitation leather, and very low-quality hardware.
For me, as a craftsman, those bags are no match for ours. The only real competition is the low price at which they are sold.
When you work with high-quality leather or suede, what specific details do you look for to determine if it’s good quality?
In the case of split leather or suede—which we use extensively at MAUSKA—the most important factors are the thickness and the feel of the grain.
After so many years in this business, what do you enjoy most about the process of making a bag?
We really enjoy seeing the finished bag. That’s the moment when all the hard work is reflected in the piece.
In the case of MAUSKA bags, we especially enjoy seeing them on people we know. We always find ourselves saying, affectionately, “I made that bag.”
Do you think the leatherworking trade is changing over time?
Of course. It has changed a great deal in recent years.
A comprehensive understanding of the trade is being lost. The younger generations are entering factories and learning only part of the process.
Finally, what does it mean to you to continue making handbags in Ubrique today?
Continuing to make handbags in Ubrique today is a challenge we overcome every day, but we wouldn’t trade it for anything.
Thank you to the brands that trust in artisanal craftsmanship like ours. And thank you to MAUSKA for continuing to support small artisans.
Tools used in the artisanal leatherworking process in Ubriique..
At Mauska, we understand luxury as a process.
Pieces created slowly, by expert hands, in a place where craftsmanship remains a living practice.
Discover the collection of bags crafted in Ubrique.
Discover the collection of handbags handcrafted in Ubrique.